Tuesday 9 September 2014

WA Kalbarri to Freemantle


31 Aug Sun Kalbarri  Kalbarri National Park surrounds the lower reaches of the Murchison River, which has cut a magnificent 80 kilometre gorge through the red and white banded sandstone.  We did not repeat the 9km Loop walk, just went to Nature’s Window and Z bend. 
 
 


Arthropod tracks
A new walk down to the river looked boring and very steep.  We had to look carefully to find f
lowers as they had bloomed early this year, but we did see a fantastic variety, including those photographed.
Grevillea annulifera Prickly Plume Grevillea
Calothamnus longissimus

Thysanotus
Calytrix brevifolia
Grevillea eriostachya
Grevillea leucopteris

Jacksonia cupulifera
Melaleuca concreta
Grevillea petrophiloides  Pink Pokers
Keraudrenia hermannifolia  Crinkle-leaved firebush

 
Conospermum stoechadis
Cyphanthera racemosa

Grevillea tenuiflora

  Drove to a new lookout at West Gorge.  Facilities everywhere were very new and the whole place rather sanitized (staircase instead of rock hopping …).

1 Sep Mon Kalbarri
Drove around the coastal lookouts in Kalbarri NP and pleased to see whales from the Grandstand -  2 smallish black ones (Right Whales?) and a very large humpback.  They gave us many (distant) views of surfacing, spouting.  Walked down to Mushroom Rock where we watched small colourful crabs feeding.
Diplolaena grandiflora  Tamala Rose
Calandrinia remota
2 Sep Tue Morawa
Intended to do a big shop at Coles or WW in Northampton, but it just had a small IGA, so we drove into Geraldton.
Decided to skip Mullewa where we stayed in 2008.  Got a map showing flower sites around Morawa and headed for the council CP at Morawa – basic but clean & cheap.  Flowers were same as before – carpets of white, yellow and some pink.    Found one orchid where there was supposed to be a great variety. 
Banksia prionotes
Some pretty and/or interesting plants which I can't identify.
Saw Carnaby cockatoos, blue-winged kookaburra and brown honeyeater.
Diuris laxiflora Bee Orchid
3 Sep Wed Bindoon
Left Morawa at 9 and walked around Caron Dam an hour later.

Lunched at Dalwallinu, a prosperous town with nice park opposite a very busy bakery/café, where we bought delicious cakes.  Also went to an op shop, buying 4 jazz CDs for $8 and a curtain for $3 ( to cover the extra rubber between our beds).
Ring-necked parrot, Dalwallinu park
Grevillea eriostachya
This stopped the traffic!
Had intended to stay overnight at New Norcia but found the ‘camp’ awful and the place unbearably commercial.  So drove further under overcast skies and hoped for a better place.  Bindoon is a small town but the 6 powered caravan sites beside the oval looked ok.
At Bindoon the Post Office doubles as Information Centre and is also the place for booking a caravan site.  We got plenty of information about possible walks tomorrow morning to fill in time before getting Cub canvas reset at Fremantle dealers at 1:15.
Walked around the town beside a wetland  where we saw only yellow-billed spoonbills.

4 Sep Thu Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Walked 1.5k at Blackboy Ridge, Chittering, 89km from Perth.  Beautiful wildflowers, many ringnecks. 
Drove on to Cub Campers where Andrew did an excellent job fixing our bent pole and shortened the Cub’s troublesome feet as well.  Next stop was Clark Rubber to buy a piece, so we could convert our single beds to a double bed.  Cost $78 but well worth it.
Shopped at Beeliar, then on to Coogee Beach.  The caravan park has many permanents and needs a revamp, but we had nice neighbours and a concrete slab in a sheltered position.  And TWO keys for the amenities blocks!

5 Sep Fri Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Drove a long way to Armadale.  Info centre led us to Churchman’s Dam where I eyeballed a Spotted Pardalote and saw little else.
  Went to Bunnings for a saw to cut down bed board and make a good double bed. Went to Fremantle where David bought new walking shoes from Mountain Design, as his Keens fell apart for the third time.  Had Japanese lunch.  Looked at crowded boat harbor and South Beach.
 

 Fremantle was attractive – no skyscrapers, many old brick cottages, some semis, reminiscent of inner Sydney suburbs.   Near the beach were modern homes and unit blocks, none more than about 4 storeys.

6 Sep Sat Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Windy, rain.  Drove to Perth to visit Museum and Art Galley.
Perth Art Gallery garden
  Museum was old and scattered – had to walk in light rain from one section to another.  Never found the café.  Paid $13 each to see the Kabul treasures we’d missed in Brisbane – enjoyable and interesting.  Joined a guided tour in Art Gallery and learned more than I wanted to know about donors and modern art, especially Aboriginal art. Too tired to look at other sections.  Late lunch at Art Gallery  café.  Checked out Bibra Lake on way home – saw coots and swans.  All bleak as weather worsened.



7 Sep Sun Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Walked cycle path beside caravan park, seeing 5 Carnaby’s cockatoos munching cones on a callistris.  Coogee Beach Surf Club café had few customers as weather looked threatening.  Did not try to walk to Woodman’s Point as planned.  After lunch we drove there and explored some of the area, including a Nature Reserve with ammo bunkers inside and train tracks still evident from 1940s(?).  Shame about the weather as the walk from our trailer would have been very pleasant.
100km winds overnight and some rain.  Took down extra wall and scrunched it under outside table.  Trailer shook but we were dry and safe, though didn’t sleep until 1am.


8 Sep Mon Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Shopping, organizing bank accounts and lazing around.  Searched for bird watching sites for tomorrow in hope of better weather.  Strong winds but not nearly as bad as last night.

9 Sep Tue Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Frustrating drive to Lake Monger – never got there but looked at Lake Cooloongolup.  No access that we could find.
Nice to see this Ringneck in the weed
Then we searched for Alcoa Wetlands at non-existent address of Zig Zag Lane.  Found them eventually, more luck than good navigation.  Great place for birding, though some paths were very muddy.  Saw 17 species, including Musk Ducks and about 30 Hoary-headed Grebes.
Musk duck
Hoary-headed grebes

Decided we’d had enough of Fremantle and searched internet for interesting places between here and Fitzgerald River NP.  We are determined to find new experiences.  Also David is having problems with his right leg which affect sleeping, and with pins and needles in his feet.  He fell over in trailer which I found alarming.  I think we should aim for home ASAP.  He still wants to visit new places.






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