Monday, 15 September 2014

WA Dryandra to Albany



10 & 11 Sep  Dryandra Woodland
Drove 100km from Freemantle to Lane Poole Reserve, a popular camping spot with a variety of walks.  Rain started before we reached there.  Several walks were closed because of flooding.  Continued on to our chosen camp site at Dryandra Woodland (164k from Perth).  I knew that we could go on a night walk through a special native animal reserve tonight but not on Thursday, so we booked that and got details of camping at Congelin.  Our luck turned when we arrived around 3pm in dry weather.
Eucalyptus astringens (Brown Mallet) & E. wandoo (White Gum)
Spent some time exploring orchids in campground with Amanda & Rick, the only other campers, keen to show us every flower.
Eriksonella sacharata   Sugar Orchid
Caladenia barbarossa  Dragon Orchid
Caladenia footeana Crimson Spider Orchid
Blue-breasted Fairy-wren
White-browed Scrubwren
Red-capped Robin
Scarlet Robin
Agrostocrinum scabrum Blue Grass Lily

Banksia nobilis
Banksia bella with its unusual foliage
Drosera barbigera
Drosera menziesii
Elythranthera brunois  Purple Enamel Orchid
Grevillea petrofiloides
  We broke away to look for birds before making early dinner.  Had to be at some crossroads by 6:10 and follow sandwich board instructions to Barna Mia. Location of place is kept secret so nocturnal animals aren’t disturbed by drivers in daytime.  By 6:20 we were ready to turn back when I saw distant headlights.  Found ourselves in a procession of vehicles going ?? and hoped this was the route.  Barna Mia building is beautiful, meant to resemble a burrow with stained glass wall outside and great mural of the animals inside.  Our ranger guide gave an excellent powerpoint talk beforehand to the 20 or more mostly foreign tourists.  We then left torches behind and followed red lights to 3 small teepees not far from the building.  Three people including David each carried 2 plastic dishes of pellets and a small container of apple, pear and fungi cubes.  We were led to sitting logs and watched a delightful suite of small native mammals eating.  Boodies (Burrowing Bettongs) were plentiful and very active, hissing and fighting for food.  Boodies are now live freely only on offshore islands. Woylies (Brush-tailed Bettongs) were hard to distinguish from  boodies unless you saw the raised hairs on the end of their tails. Woylies live in a few small areas of WA and SA and are extremely rare.  Both species weigh around 1.5kg and have head & body length 35 cm.  Photos are taken from the internet.
Boodie
Woylie
We saw 2 hare wallabies, very shy and sweet with hairy fur.  Bilbies darted in, filled their cheeks and went away to eat.   Only one bandicoot, quenda, came.  It sat quietly munching, ignoring the boodies running around.  The tiny western bandicoot was the only ‘guest’ missing from the feast.  Three uninvited guests, brushtail possums, turned up.  The compound is designed to keep out all unwanted animals, but possums find a way in, are caught, tagged, released elsewhere and often return.

   Late start on Thursday after a troubled night because of David’s leg.  Drove to Dryandra Village where the caretakers gave us good info re walks.  First walk was Kawana  (mallee fowl symbol), 3.3km, a bit uphill.  Stony, bare except for mallet and mallee until we came to a most unusual area with Shaggy Dog dryandras in bloom and many other flowers.  Next walk, Wandoo, was supposedly 1km, 30 mins (wren symbol) which started at Old Mill Dam.  Different – sandy, many drosera and daisies, but changed as we walked slightly uphill to poison pea country and became a one hour walk.  Back to toilets and eating lunch in a shelter shed with interesting info about Lions involvement with this area, which began in the 1970s with the establishment of a camp for disadvantaged children. 
Drove to Ochre Walk but David opted out after 1k of the 5k walk.

12 Sep Fri Albany
10 degrees when we set off in foggy conditions around 9am.  Soon cleared to sunny day.  Saw a black-shouldered kite near Wagin.  Shopped at Katanning as unsure of destination until we checked computer for 2008 journey.  Decided to go to Albany rather than Porongorup as we hadn’t been there before.  Checked out other caravan parks before driving a bit further and settling into the Top Tourist at Emu Beach.  Nice grassy site – saw Common Bronzewing and beautiful Blue-breasted Wrens as well as magpies and WW.

13 Sep Sat Albany
David slept well last night, no troubles with leg, thank goodness.
View over Thistle Cove
Torndirrup NP is the most visited NP in WA and we saw why – pounding seas on rocks and cliffs, sights such as Natural Arch and The Gap; beautiful beaches around every bend, most of them with warnings to fishermen (at Salmon Holes there is an anchorage point with lifebuoy for intrepid rock fishermen.
 Frenchmans Beach had the best toilets, inside and out, we’ve seen, fit for a luxury hotel.  

Frenchmans Bay
Grey butcherbird
Caladenia latifolia Pink Fairy Orchid


Salmon Holes
Misery Beach and Bald Hill
Isopogon formosus





King George Sound
Anthocercis viscosa
Coast near Natural Arch


14 Sep Sun     Gull Rock NP

The 2,000 ha reserve is an area of exceptional botanical richness. It contains several species of threatened native flora and has the most significant remaining stands of scarlet banksia (Banksia coccinea) in the region.
 
Banksia coccinea

Banksia formosa
Carnaby's black cockatoo on Hakea elliptica
Chorizema unicatum
Daviesia obovata
??
Xanthosia rotundifolia
Query 5 petals
? 6 petals

Boronia crenulata
Kingia australis Drumsticks

View from Mount Martin






Tuesday, 9 September 2014

WA Kalbarri to Freemantle


31 Aug Sun Kalbarri  Kalbarri National Park surrounds the lower reaches of the Murchison River, which has cut a magnificent 80 kilometre gorge through the red and white banded sandstone.  We did not repeat the 9km Loop walk, just went to Nature’s Window and Z bend. 
 
 


Arthropod tracks
A new walk down to the river looked boring and very steep.  We had to look carefully to find f
lowers as they had bloomed early this year, but we did see a fantastic variety, including those photographed.
Grevillea annulifera Prickly Plume Grevillea
Calothamnus longissimus

Thysanotus
Calytrix brevifolia
Grevillea eriostachya
Grevillea leucopteris

Jacksonia cupulifera
Melaleuca concreta
Grevillea petrophiloides  Pink Pokers
Keraudrenia hermannifolia  Crinkle-leaved firebush

 
Conospermum stoechadis
Cyphanthera racemosa

Grevillea tenuiflora

  Drove to a new lookout at West Gorge.  Facilities everywhere were very new and the whole place rather sanitized (staircase instead of rock hopping …).

1 Sep Mon Kalbarri
Drove around the coastal lookouts in Kalbarri NP and pleased to see whales from the Grandstand -  2 smallish black ones (Right Whales?) and a very large humpback.  They gave us many (distant) views of surfacing, spouting.  Walked down to Mushroom Rock where we watched small colourful crabs feeding.
Diplolaena grandiflora  Tamala Rose
Calandrinia remota
2 Sep Tue Morawa
Intended to do a big shop at Coles or WW in Northampton, but it just had a small IGA, so we drove into Geraldton.
Decided to skip Mullewa where we stayed in 2008.  Got a map showing flower sites around Morawa and headed for the council CP at Morawa – basic but clean & cheap.  Flowers were same as before – carpets of white, yellow and some pink.    Found one orchid where there was supposed to be a great variety. 
Banksia prionotes
Some pretty and/or interesting plants which I can't identify.
Saw Carnaby cockatoos, blue-winged kookaburra and brown honeyeater.
Diuris laxiflora Bee Orchid
3 Sep Wed Bindoon
Left Morawa at 9 and walked around Caron Dam an hour later.

Lunched at Dalwallinu, a prosperous town with nice park opposite a very busy bakery/café, where we bought delicious cakes.  Also went to an op shop, buying 4 jazz CDs for $8 and a curtain for $3 ( to cover the extra rubber between our beds).
Ring-necked parrot, Dalwallinu park
Grevillea eriostachya
This stopped the traffic!
Had intended to stay overnight at New Norcia but found the ‘camp’ awful and the place unbearably commercial.  So drove further under overcast skies and hoped for a better place.  Bindoon is a small town but the 6 powered caravan sites beside the oval looked ok.
At Bindoon the Post Office doubles as Information Centre and is also the place for booking a caravan site.  We got plenty of information about possible walks tomorrow morning to fill in time before getting Cub canvas reset at Fremantle dealers at 1:15.
Walked around the town beside a wetland  where we saw only yellow-billed spoonbills.

4 Sep Thu Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Walked 1.5k at Blackboy Ridge, Chittering, 89km from Perth.  Beautiful wildflowers, many ringnecks. 
Drove on to Cub Campers where Andrew did an excellent job fixing our bent pole and shortened the Cub’s troublesome feet as well.  Next stop was Clark Rubber to buy a piece, so we could convert our single beds to a double bed.  Cost $78 but well worth it.
Shopped at Beeliar, then on to Coogee Beach.  The caravan park has many permanents and needs a revamp, but we had nice neighbours and a concrete slab in a sheltered position.  And TWO keys for the amenities blocks!

5 Sep Fri Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Drove a long way to Armadale.  Info centre led us to Churchman’s Dam where I eyeballed a Spotted Pardalote and saw little else.
  Went to Bunnings for a saw to cut down bed board and make a good double bed. Went to Fremantle where David bought new walking shoes from Mountain Design, as his Keens fell apart for the third time.  Had Japanese lunch.  Looked at crowded boat harbor and South Beach.
 

 Fremantle was attractive – no skyscrapers, many old brick cottages, some semis, reminiscent of inner Sydney suburbs.   Near the beach were modern homes and unit blocks, none more than about 4 storeys.

6 Sep Sat Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Windy, rain.  Drove to Perth to visit Museum and Art Galley.
Perth Art Gallery garden
  Museum was old and scattered – had to walk in light rain from one section to another.  Never found the café.  Paid $13 each to see the Kabul treasures we’d missed in Brisbane – enjoyable and interesting.  Joined a guided tour in Art Gallery and learned more than I wanted to know about donors and modern art, especially Aboriginal art. Too tired to look at other sections.  Late lunch at Art Gallery  café.  Checked out Bibra Lake on way home – saw coots and swans.  All bleak as weather worsened.



7 Sep Sun Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Walked cycle path beside caravan park, seeing 5 Carnaby’s cockatoos munching cones on a callistris.  Coogee Beach Surf Club café had few customers as weather looked threatening.  Did not try to walk to Woodman’s Point as planned.  After lunch we drove there and explored some of the area, including a Nature Reserve with ammo bunkers inside and train tracks still evident from 1940s(?).  Shame about the weather as the walk from our trailer would have been very pleasant.
100km winds overnight and some rain.  Took down extra wall and scrunched it under outside table.  Trailer shook but we were dry and safe, though didn’t sleep until 1am.


8 Sep Mon Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Shopping, organizing bank accounts and lazing around.  Searched for bird watching sites for tomorrow in hope of better weather.  Strong winds but not nearly as bad as last night.

9 Sep Tue Coogee Beach, Fremantle
Frustrating drive to Lake Monger – never got there but looked at Lake Cooloongolup.  No access that we could find.
Nice to see this Ringneck in the weed
Then we searched for Alcoa Wetlands at non-existent address of Zig Zag Lane.  Found them eventually, more luck than good navigation.  Great place for birding, though some paths were very muddy.  Saw 17 species, including Musk Ducks and about 30 Hoary-headed Grebes.
Musk duck
Hoary-headed grebes

Decided we’d had enough of Fremantle and searched internet for interesting places between here and Fitzgerald River NP.  We are determined to find new experiences.  Also David is having problems with his right leg which affect sleeping, and with pins and needles in his feet.  He fell over in trailer which I found alarming.  I think we should aim for home ASAP.  He still wants to visit new places.